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Legal Disclaimer The information contained in this Web Site is drawn from sources believed to be reliable, but the accuracy and completeness of the information is not guaranteed, nor in providing it does Phat Ride Customs assume any liability. This information is current as of the date appearing on a report within this Site, and Phat Ride Customs assumes no obligation to update the information or advise on further developments. "Where else can I learn more about MPI's Immobilizer program?" "Why aren’t the public sector vehicles getting immobilizers?" - Most police/ambulance/city vehicles already have the MPI Immobilizers installed in them.
"I got an alarm installed on my car a little over a year ago, so it'll probably cost me like $150 to get this "free" immobilizer installed?"
- If you have an alarm that is well installed and functioning there is no extra charge and it does not need to be removed. If you have a command start, there is an extra charge of $80 for labour and a bypass module to integrate the command start with the immobilizer. MPI is not responsible for how you alter your vehicle.
- This extra $80 can be financed at 0% (iirc) over 4 years through MPI. Basically they just add like a dollar a month onto your insurance to cover the costs. To setup financing for the remote start bypass or extra key tags you must request this when you schedule your appointment.
"I just bought a car on the weekend that needs one. Do I just call up a shop or wait from the letter from MPI?"
- To book an appointment you need to call MPI @ 985-7000. You can request what shop does the installation. Also, if you can't wait that long for the installation ask the person booking the appointment if that shop has had any recent cancellations. Occasionally you will get lucky and get an appointment within a day or two, just be prepared to have a flexible schedule to make the appointment as there is no telling what time it will be at.
"nothing says original numbers matching car like a blinking led on the dash and electronics under the dash My vehicle is a collectors/vintage vehicle and I don’t want to ruin it by installing a blinking light on the dash."
- The LED is allowed to be placed where ever the customer wants it, within reason.
- Some vehicles like this can apply for an exemption. It is a fairly tedious process and MPI is VERY picky about what vehicles get exempt... A 1995 Honda Civic with an engine swap probably won't get exempt, however a numbers matching 60s Camaro has a fighting chance.
"If you have an alarm that’s approved by them you shouldn't need it."
- There are currently no alarms/immobilizers on the market that are approved. Reason being is that the immobilizer arms/disarms itself and is design to work passively.
"Why do I have to waive the tag by the dash when my friend just starts his car like normal?"
- The only vehicles that you should have to waive the tag would be an older vehicle without a plastic steering column cover. If the vehicle has a plastic steering column cover the receiver for the immobilizer is placed directly by the key cylinder and you shouldn’t have to swipe or waive the tag. You should be able to get in the car and drive.
- Note: There may be some vehicles that it is not possible to put the receiver behind the plastic steering column cover and you have to waive the tag... This is a rare occurrence. If your vehicle is one of those, your installer will tell you.
"hey do you guys have to pay for these immobilizers?" - If the vehicle is "Most at Risk" list there is no charge for the immobilizer installation. The only additional charges there may be would be if the vehicle has a remote starter.
- If the vehicle is not on the list and you want one, the cost to the owner is $140 as MPI will only half the charges.
"It was -40 and I couldn't get my car started because of the immobilizer. He phoned up mpi, and they said "we are aware that the immobilizers have problems in very cold temperatures”
- This is somewhat true, the average range of the key fob is about 6” from the receiver in colder conditions this changes to approximately 5”.
- On the off chance that the vehicle has left you stranded we go through the diagnosis of the immobilizer over the phone. Usually conclude that the cause of the no start condition was a frozen or dead battery. Often boosting the vehicle fix’s this. If the boost does not start the car, and the customer is still stranded I will either send someone out to look at the vehicle or have it towed to our shop. 9 out of 10 times a weak battery is the culprit.
- You must understand that many of the vehicles on this list are already about 12 years old, many of them in need of repairs or maintenance. People generally attribute a new problem with a vehicle to the last thing that changed on the vehicle, often being an immobilizer.
- Majority of immobilizer issues that we see with vehicles are faulty starter motors and old batteries needing to be replaced. These are both fairly common things to "go" on older vehicles and both can cause a no-start condition.
"If someone wants the vehicle bad enough they can get it." - MPI is not trying to create a vehicle that is impossible to steal they are only trying to make the vehicle much harder to steal. What would take a trained car thief a minute to steal in a normal vehicle would be considerably harder with an immobilizer installed
"My 2 way alarm is way better, has a million features and works from a bazillion miles away" The standard immobilizer is using the KISS principle, the immobilizer should do its job and not effect the driver in anyway. A true passive system. As long as the "fob" is on the keychain the system will work. No extra steps or buttons to press. "Wow, the basic immobilizer only cut's 3 wires. That really doesn’t sounds that complicate at all.." - Depending on how crafty the installer is he could kill multiple circuits in a variety of places(under hood, fuse box, somewhere inside of the car depending on the vehicle. Or Spread the Immobilizer all across the car including under the rears seats. Also its not as simple as locating 2 black wires running side by side. As a guide line for all the installers "kills" must be grouped and fully taped(entire length of wire) with other black wires from the immobilizer. Crossing 2 of wrong wires will most likely results in blow fuses for those key systems, It is also encouraged for installers to hide the kills in areas that require disassembly to gain access, which also increase the time required to steal the vehicle.
"My Alarm is a 2 way so I know when someone is trying to jack my car."
- There are many people who would not want to confront the people stealing their vehicles. For example senior citizens will likely not come out and investigate who is stealing there car.
"The only things holding me back from getting it is I don't think the $42 a year is worth some kid splicing into my 26 year old wiring harness." - All installers participate in a 3 or 5 day course on installing the system and how to trouble shoot vehicles if a problem does arise. Spot inspection are done randomly by MPI to insure shops are keeping up with standards. Random cars are also pulled to insure that installers are installing immobilizer within the IBC standards. If you are concerned about the shop you are going to feel free to visit that shop prior to your appointment questions from customers are encouraged.
"Who do I blame when I have a short circuit somewhere.... Surely not the installer."
- The shop is responsible for the immobilizer they have installed into your vehicle. This does sometimes include charges like towing.
"Is there any drilling/screwing involved in installing the immobilizer? I don't want new holes in my dash."
- The only visible drilling usually done to the vehicle is to have the status LED installed in the dash. Drilling maybe be done depending on the vehicle to the firewall but all holes must be grommeting and sealed .Quote:
"I actually suggested ign as one of the points of kill until recently .. lol .. hmm so what happens if a relay on ign or acc go bad .. imagine if the vehicle were on the highway .. then to loose abs, airbags..power steering etc.."
- As a rule of thumb the ignition wire is avoided at all costs as a "kill", excuse the pun; because of the very reasons you have stated.
“hmm .. the ford pats system qualifies ...yet it does NOT have all black wires nor does it kill 3 points .... makes ya wonder and yes the rfid system ford uses has been broken ..”
- The reason that the immobilizer has all black wires is to make it very confusing to locate the "kill" which is 2 wires in a bundle of say 3 or 4 wires which are all taped together( taped the entire length of the harness)
"There are tons of immobilizer's out there with remote starts hooked up to them in such a way that the immobilizer is pretty much useless"
- Vehicles that have remote starter already installer must be wired properly to have an immobilizer co-operate with the remote starter. As a module is added to the immobilizer they must maintain the all black wire standard, must also be powered with switched grounds and switched 12v all while being hidden with the already present wiring.
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